Ramadan

Today is the first day of Ramadan. It is hot. I am careful not to enjoy a cool swig of water openly. Not out of fear of repercussions but rather respect. The Muslims here cannot let anything pass their lips from sunrise to sunset; a tough discipline.

A few days ago I came into Jerusalem through the Gilo checkpoint between Bethlehem and Jerusalem and already the large cement blocks were placed some 30 meters from the terminal gates on the Bethlehem side in preparation for crowd control. The terminal, the wall (separation barrier, security fence, cement monstrosity…whatever) acts as a serious deterrent to all Palestinians who do not have the necessary permit to enter Jerusalem. According to Muslim beliefs, all should enter the Al-Aqsa Mosque in the Old City at least one Friday during the Ramadan period and pray there if they can. Even with the Israeli government’s leniency during this period the amount of people who want to pray greatly outnumber those who are allowed to. Tensions increase. Even with a capacity of 100,000 on the Dome of the Rock grounds, many more still try to push through.

Most years there are huge numbers of people attempting to cross the checkpoints who are not allowed to cross and so pray at the gates of the terminal – the closest point to the holy site. Gilo checkpoint is a particular problem and often riots, tear gas, casualties and general confusion occur. I am travelling back to Bethlehem on Thursday and will be at the checkpoint on Friday for the first Friday or Ramadan. I’ll report back then.